Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
